Preventative Maintenance is regular maintenance of your vehicle that helps keep your automobile running efficiently and eliminating potential problems that may leave you stranded. Manufacturers know that a properly maintained car will be more dependable, safer, last longer, and increase your satisfaction with their product.

Preventative maintenance includes:

Servicing Windshield Wipers

Tune-up or service/replace spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap, and rotor.

Replacing air filters

Engine oil change

Differential(s) gear oil change

Trans-axle oil change

Routine hose inspection

Battery service

Exterior drive belt replacement

Servicing/replacing transmission oil and filter

Timing belt replacement

Brake fluid flush

Power steering flush

Antifreeze replacement/flush

Rotate tires

Inspect exhaust system for leaks

Inspect brake linings brake rotor hydraulic lines calipers and wheel cylinders

Replace cabin air filter

Used car safety inspection

These are generic service recommendations based solely on time or mileage, not on visual appearance or measurement. Their purpose is to extend the life of your vehicle and help prevent breakdown. Your vehicle’s requirements may differ depending on driving habits and/or the owner’s manual recommendations. Check your owner’s manual and with your auto mechanic for specifics.

OIL – LUBE – FILTER: 3,000 miles to 5,000 miles

TIRE ROTATION: 3,000 to 5,000 Miles depending on tire style

PCV VALVE: Yearly, replace and service PCV system

WHOLE CAR DIAGNOSIS: Yearly and before purchase or sale

FUEL FILTER: Yearly or as needed

BATTERY SERVICE: Yearly or as needed

AIR CONDITIONING: Check every spring or as needed

RADIATOR COOLANT: Every two years, flush

BRAKE SYSTEM FLUSH: Every year

CLUTCH SYSTEM FLUSH: Every year

RADIATOR CAP: Replace every two years

ENGINE OIL FLUSH: 2 Years or 30,000 Miles

AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUSH: 2 Years or 24,000 miles

POWER STEERING FLUSH: 2 Years or 24,000 miles

EGR SYSTEM SERVICE: 2 Years or 24,000 miles

4X4 TRANSFER CASE: 15,000 to 50,000 miles

CARBON CLEANING: 2 Years or 30,000 miles or as needed

THROTTLE-BODY SERVICE: 2 Years or 30,000 miles or as needed

RADIATOR & HEATER HOSES: 4 Years or 60,000 miles

DRIVE BELTS: 4 Years or 60,000 miles

TIMING BELT: 4 Years or 60,000 miles

DIFFERENTIAL FLUID: 15,000 to 50,000 miles

MANUAL TRANS SERVICE: 15,000 to 50,000 miles

VALVES: Adjust per owner’s manual

SCAN FOR COMPUTER CODES: When amber “CHECK ENGINE” Light is on

OXYGEN SENSOR: Per owner’s manual or as needed

The check engine light is one of the most vital components to a properly functioning vehicle. It alerts the driver of a potential problem on the vehicle’s onboard diagnostic system (main computer). When the check engine light comes on it means that a system in your vehicles — such as ignition, fuel injection, or emission control — is not operating efficiently, even though your vehicle seems to be running fine.If your check engine light comes on and it’s flashing, that indicates a more severe problem that should be checked out immediately to prevent damage to the catalytic converter (part of your exhaust system). When you experience a flashing light, minimize driving at high speeds, especially if you’re towing. When the check engine light comes on, there’s no need to panic, just make an appointment to get your vehicle checked out as soon as possible. Ignoring your check engine light could severely damage engine components and cost you more money in the end.

1. Will it hurt my engine if I drive my car when the check engine light is on?
2. It is possible but not too likely. However, you do need to get your vehicle checked out as soon as possible. You may see a decrease in performance.

Brakes can squeak for a variety of reasons, but continuous squeals and grinding sounds may mean it’s time for new brake pads and shoes. Work brakes can mean longer stopping distances and difficulty stopping in emergency situations. Rotors and drums that are too thin may even become over-stressed and break. Remember, if you notice any of these symptoms it’s a good idea to get your brakes checked.

A brake job includes replacement of worn parts in order to restore the vehicle’s braking performance to new condition.

Brake components that should be replaced will obviously depend upon the age, mileage and wear. During a brake job, all components should be checked and the replacement requirements will change form vehicle to vehicle. A brake inspection should include inspection of the brake lining, rotors and drums, calipers and wheel cylinders, brake hardware, hoses, lines, and master cylinder. Any hoses that are found to be age cracked, chaffed, swollen, or leaking must be replaced. Replacement hoses should have the same type of end fittings (double-flared or ISO) as the original. Steel lines that are leaking, kinked, badly corroded, or damaged must also be replaced. For steel brake lines, use only approved steel tubing with double-flared or ISO flare ends’ leaking caliper or wheel cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The same applies to a caliper that is frozen (look for uneven pad wear), damaged, or badly corroded.  A leak at the master cylinder or a brake pedal that gradually sinks to the floor tells you that the master cylinder needs replacing. The rotors and drums need to be inspected for wear, heat cracks, warpage, or other damage. Unless they are in perfect condition, they should always be resurfaced before new linings are installed. If worn too thin, they should be replaced. Rust, heat, and age have a detrimental effect on many hardware components. It’s a good idea to replace some of these parts when the brakes are relined. On disc brakes, new mounting pins and bushings are recommended for floating-style calipers. High temperature synthetic or silicone brake grease (never ordinary chassis grease) should be used to lubricate caliper pins and caliper contact points. On drum brakes: shoe retaining clips and return springs should be replaced. Self-adjusters should be replaced if they are corroded or frozen. Use brake grease to lubricate self-adjusters and raised points on brake backing plates where shoes make contact. Wheel bearings should be part of a complete brake job on most rear-wheel drive vehicles and some front-wheel drive cars. Unless bearings are sealed, they need to be cleaned, inspected, repacked with wheel bearing grease (new grease seals are a must), and properly adjusted. As a rule, tapered roller bearings are not preloaded. Finger tight is usually recommended. Ball wheel bearings usually require pre-loading. Lastly, old brake fluid should always be replaced with fresh fluid as it can be contamination with water which can corrode brake lines and decrease braking capacity.